This new Torrisi provides a perfect showcase. The net effect is a celebration of how American cuisine at its best hybridizes and amplifies the breadth of our traditions, into things that are delicious and new and uniquely ours. Cavatelli with a Jamaican beef ragu, and octopus Nha Trang (a rework of a dish at nearby Nha Trang One) bow to other flavors that form the city’s fabric. A lobster-studded capellini Cantonese nods to nearby Chinatown without losing the rootedness of Little Italy. The old pickle plate has evolved into cucumbers “New Yorkese,” which tips a hat to the old Jewish brining traditions of the Lower East Side.

The interior now exudes a touch of Carbone-y glitz, and more importantly, the cooking has found a way to take Torrisi’s original homages and springboard them. This would not only give birth to Carbone, devised by Rich Carbone, Torrisi’s co-owner at the original (and to their Parm sandwich shops) but also to the entire revival of red-sauce Italian as a nationwide retro trend.īecause Torrisi himself always comes with new tricks up his sleeve, Torrisi 2.0 has taken the skeleton of the original and built something completely new. Also the elevation of Italian American cuisine on its own merits, with depth and soul. A $50 tasting menu that showcased deep kitchen talent without white tablecloths or frills - essentially a NYC twist on what was happening in Paris’ néobistros. Those of us who dined at the original Specialties remember not just Torrisi’s inventive dishes - sui generis pastas and tweaks like his sweetbreads Milanese - but the way that the restaurant itself planted a flag for a lot of things that have come to define dining on these shores in the decade since.

Rich Torrisi returning to have a platform for his uniquely adaptive Italian American cooking is great news in every way.

But the return of Torrisi (or rather the reappearance, since Torrisi Bar & Restaurant isn’t quite the same as the original Torrisi Italian Specialties) marks an auspicious moment for New York dining. We’re well aware that nearly anything from Major Food Group creates its own weather. Jon Bonné is Resy’s managing editor and author of the newly published book, “The New French Wine.” Follow him on Instagram and Twitter. Whether you’re staying in town for the summer, or enjoying an adventure on the road - with a great meal along the way - we’ve got a selection of some of the most joyous places to dine right now, from coast to coast. With that, let’s get you straight into the Dining Access Hit List, our latest roundup of 10 restaurants that define how America is dining at its best right now. In all cases, it helps that each of these is bookable via Global Dining Access by Resy, available to premium American Express card members. And even classic French cooking is finding new zing at places like Troubadour, in California’s Wine Country, and Chicago’s Obélix. Neo-Italian American has hit a pinnacle at the new Torrisi. It’s also beautifully varied - which is to say that we’re witnessing a growing Indian-food renaissance not just in New York but also at Daru in D.C. (Like, real delight, not TikTok-fodder delight.) The surge of innovation we’re witnessing in American restaurants right now is remarkable. And now the moment of the ’20s is here - the season for patios and long, Negroni-filled twilights, and for dining, unabashedly, to feel central to our lives again.Īmid their challenges, these past few years provided chefs and restaurateurs with an opportunity to step back, and think about food and drinks that offer sheer delight in new and unexpected ways. For nearly a year, careful observers in almost every dining city in the country have been describing the return. Yes, this is the summer when we complete the post-pandemic restaurant rebound.

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